Caring for the Dwarf Seahorse (Hippocampus zosterae)
By Ken Adams
The seahorse is one of the most amazing creatures under the sea.  Seahorses are very popular with keepers of salt water aquariums because they are such graceful and wonerful creatures.  Also they are fun and exiting to have in an aquarium and really is one of the fishes that stands out in an aquarium.  The thing about keeping a seahorse is that it is never easy.  The dwarf seahorse (Hippocampus zosterae) is one of the easiest of all species to care for.  I happen to disagree with this theory for the reason of how you have to feed this specie.  You must feed the dwarf hatched from your home, decapped brine cysts.  Also H. zosterae is a popular candidate because they will rapidly produce if kept in a healthy environment.  Over all I think the dwarf is one of the most enjoyable seahorses to keep and i hope this article gives you more knowledge about this wonderful species and helps you if you plan on keeping this species.


Tank Mates: Usually tank mates are a bad idea to keep with the dwarf seahorse, but as i am a keeper i do understand that the more hobbiests have to clean the happier they are.  In this case some companions are compatible with the Hippocampus zosterae.  Most of these tank mates are from the catagory of "clean up crew".  Some of these companions include:

  • Several types of small hermit crabs
  • Small shrimp such as the Hawian Red Shrimp (Holocanthus rubra)
  • Several types of small snails
These are some of the suitable tank mates for dwarf seahorses.  Having some of these creatures will help clean the tank and alos help balance it for a much healthier tank.


Tank Size: The tank size for the Hippocampus zosterae is preferably very small.  The largest tank size that you could go to is 10 gallons.  This tank size is not recomended for beginners as brine shrimp are very small for the dwarfs to find it.  You would have to have at least 8 dwarfs in a 10 Gallon tank to balance everything.  A great size for a beginner is a 5 gallon tank.  You could fit around 8-12 dwarfs in this tank including babies but it is not nessasary to have that many.  The tank size is very important for your seahorses' health so please be careful when choosing a tank.


Tank Decorations: Tank decorations are very important to all species of seahorses in any tank.  Seahorses are very small and spend most of thier time hitched on to some sort of plant, toy, coral, or stick.  They call this their hitching post.  They will use this a lot.  Almost anything they can fit their tiny tails around is good.  About the thickness of a pencil is good.  I have used everything from dead coral, to live marine plants, to a fake plastic plant.  Any way you put it you will need a hitching post for your dwarfs not to get stressed out and live a healthy life.


Substrate: Fortunately for me I had gotten into this hobby after the sand-snicking rumor had started.  People had been saying that the seahorse would get to close to the sand and would get it caught in their throat or digestive system.  Then the sand grain would suffocate the seahorse and kill it.  I know for a fact this is not true for any specie of seahorse.  The rumor does not indicate that wild caught seahorses live above sand.  Their natural habitat is with sand under thier tails.  This proves sand is a wonderful substrate to use in your tank.  I happen to use black, red, and blue sand in my dwarf tanks.  I think it brings wonderful color to your tank and also makes the seahorses stand out a lot more.  Another kind of substrate you must be careful with is live sand and crushed coral.  They both may have small shrimp, "bugs" (ed. note: amphipods), hydroids, etc.  hiding within.  I wouldn't recommend using these products but I have heard they do work most of the time.


Tank Parameters: To have a cycled tank is essential for any type of fish.  You must of had the tank running for at least 4 weeks to even have a chance of your seahorses living.  What you will eventually have to do after you get tired of testing your water at you LFS is buy a home test kit.  They are not that expensive and they are very useful.  Another thing you need to have is a thermometer.  Although in the summer if your house temperature is normal (74-78 degrees) you may not need it, you should always have one for backup.  Your temperature should be around 75 degrees but up to 78 is fine.  Another thing you will need is a hydrometer.  This will accurately measure your salinity.  (Ed. note: You will also need a heater.  This piece of equipment is a must for regulating tank temperature.) Here is a list of perfect tank parameters:

  • Ammonia (NH3) - 0ppm
  • Nitrite (NO2) - 0ppm
  • Nitrate (NO3) - 0-10ppm
  • pH - 8.4-8.6
  • Specific Gravity - 1.020-1.026
One more thing you will have to do to keep these perfect parameters is do a water change.  A water change should be done every month.  The amount you should take is 25%.  If you want a great tank you can go the extra mile and do a 5% change every week.  I prefer doing this because i think it gives the water enough time adapt to the tank if it is in smaller amounts.  You can not just do this with regular tap water.  I use distilled bottle water.  Another thing you could do is use chlorine purifier but i would prefer it.  Use 1/2 cup for every gallon to refill the salt water.  Also make sure you have several pre mixed salt water for backup.  Another thing you need to do is fill evaporated water.  Salt doesent evaporate so what you should do is fill the water to the brine or mark where you fill it.  As the water goes down add fresh water to the line and your tank will be balanced.  Filteration: I believe the best kind of filter to use when dealing with dwarfs is a sponge filter.  It is very wasy to use and all you need to do is clean the sponge once a month.  Bio wheele filters can be used to if you fix them up a bit.  You need to put a sponge over the intake of the filter so that baby brine and dwarf fry do not get sucked up.  Another thing you may .  This will make the current slow down a bit.  So in conclusion i think you should use a sponge filter.  No bio bags, no cleaning, and basically its easier.  Feeding: The way you need to feed dwarf is probably the main reason people pass by the dwarf and move on to a different seahorse.  You need to deccap and hatch brine shrimp every day to feed to your dwarfs.  No they do not eat frozen brine.  What you first need to do is decapsulate the eggs.  Basically what this does in decrease the chances of hydroid infestation.  All you do is soak the eggs in tap water with bleach then you was them untill the bleach smell is gone.  Please look around for instructions on how to decapsulated the eggs.  Then to hatch the eggs is very easy.  I recently baught this little black box that i am very pleased with! It has a contsainer that the brine swim to when they hatch.  This way you do not need to worry about eggs.  So basically anything is fine to use.  You fill the container with salt water.  Then you add the decapsulated brine.  Then you add the air stone into the container for around 12 hours.  Then take it out and let them hatch! This is not a hard process and is easy after a couple times.  Breeding The Dwarf: How the dwarf breeds is one of the biggest reasons people choose the dwarf.  It breeds very easily.  Just buy 2 or 3 pairs and you should see them getting friendly with eachother.  Then you should see them start courting (see below).  What you could use that would increase breeding and make your dwarfs happier would be to use trace elements.  You can buy these basically anywhere.  You do not need to use trace elements but it would help a lot.  Courting: The ritual or courting is one of those things that remindes you why you love this hobby.  It is one of the most amazing things ever.  It is just great to see it happen! Well this all starts when the male horse approaches the female and usually turns a very light color.  The dwarf may change color alot.  When it is unhappy it turns darker when it is happy they turn lighter.  They may also turn colors to match thier favorate decoration, plants, or even the subsrate.  Then the male will start to move his head all around and swim about his mate.  Then the female will do the same thing.  This will continue anywhere from 5 hours to 3 days.  After a little while you will notice the pouch of the male filling up.  If you do not already know...  the male has the babies.  This is very unusual, but at the same time pretty cool.  Then he will start moving and shaking and pumping.  What he is doing is getting his pouch ready for the eggs.  After he is done comes the best part.  You will see the couple hold tails and swim about the tank.  It is really amazing to watch.  This doesent last long.  After they are finished the female will deposit the eggs into the males pouch.  She will look very fat and chubby when doing this.  The eggs will hatch in 10-20 days, normally in the middle, but i had one male go to 22.  The babies didnt make it most likely because the male waited so long.  The babies come out live and have a 50% chance of survival (see fry care below).  When the breeding is going on i would definitly turn the filter off and also your air stone if one is present.  This will prevent bubbles getting into the males pouch and possibly infecting it.  Fry Care: Watching fry mature is one of the most amazing things to watch.  When they are born they will normally ahng out at the bottom of the tank.  Some will go right to a hitching post but most will not.  They look just like a regular seahorse just very small (see picture below).  You can keep them in the same tank as thier parents but i would recomend it especially if your tank is bigger then 5 gallons.  The brine are very hard for the fry to find and the parents may get to most of the fry before they do.  Thats why i recomend getting a small tank and hatching a bit more brine then usual.  Make sure your water quality is good and the fry get plenty of food and you can watch them grow.  4 months they will be mature and ready for breeding.  Conclusion: Keeping seahorses is one of the most enjoyable hobbies thier is.  What some people dont udnerstand is you dont get into seahorses because they are cool, you do it because you can take the responsibility of having a endangered animal under your care.  If you feel you dont think you can handle all the work or you think you will get bored of the hobby then do not get into it.  Seahorses bring great joy to life and basically make you happy.  They are very sociable creatures and will try to interact with you.  They all are different and inique in thier own ways.  Raising these beautiful creatures is one of the most rewarding things you could ever do.  Knowing you are helping keep a specie alive.  Year 2030....once apon a time deep in the ocean lived seahorses......  Help this from happening. 

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